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Commentary on Mountain Motorcycle Travel in India

From Romesh Bhattacharji

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Motorcycle Routes from Rohtang Pass to the Trans Himalaya
Commentary on Mountain Motorcycle Travel in India

At Zoji La in June 1975.

Romesh Bhattacharji

  • At Rhotang Pass the Pir Panjal range, which rises from Domel near Muzaffrabad in Pakistan Kashmir, is crossed. Then, one sees the spectacular collection of a myriad Himalayan peaks known collectively as the Chandra Bhagas and Mulkilas, and a few more like the Gepang Goh. The mostly tarred road goes around them from -- using an aviator's lingo -- from 6 o'clock to 1 o'clock.

  • Around Kalpa, Phuti Runi (it's a centuries old word meaning Split in the Great Rock, which is precisely the point where the Himalaya are pierced!) -- by the Chandra River near Baltal below Kunzum La and much before Gramphoo, Baralacha La, and Zoji La -- is the Great Himalayan Crest crossed.

  • The Srinagar–Leh road has a few diversions to the north that lead to magnificence that wrench one's heart.

  • Near Minimarg comes in a beautiful road from Kishenganga Valley. From Kargil a road goes to the troublesome border village of Batalik, on the India-Pakistan Line of Control (LOC) and then turns east along the Indus to Khaltse.

  • After the striking gompa of Mulbek and before Bod Kharbu a good road branches off to Achinathang, with a dramatically placed gompa, on the Indus.

  • On the breath taking Kargil–Padam route, the good road after Parkachik goes round the Nun Kun massif from 6 o'clock to 2 o'clock till Pense La, then it follows the long Durung Drung glacier for about three kilometers.

  • The Ladakh Range or Kailash Range, which starts at Kiris village in Pakistan where the Shyok meets the Indus and ends 15 kilometers after Mount Kailash in Tibet, crosses the Indus in Ladakh at what is now known as Loma Bend. The bridge here is at the confluence of the Hanle with the Indus.

  • If one follows the right bank road of the Indus to Tsaka village, past the Yak farm, and then to Tchaga La and Chushul one is technically in the Trans Himalaya.

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